Warmed up, & headed over to the 45 degree wall. Decided on a really crimpy extended problem & went to work; came to the long crux move, set up & hit the left, lost my feet due to extension, but stuck it. Finished it up & the rest of my 4x4s. Psyched; felt great, strong, & accomplished. (Looking back, I’m fairly certain this move was the cause of my injury)
Climbed three more days that week. By the third, I could really tell something was wrong with my left ring finger’s middle joint. Began my research for a self diagnosis & it seems to be either an A2 Pulley or Collateral Ligament strain.
This is my first real climbing related injury besides your typical elbow tendonitis. Let me say, it is seriously depressing! Hard to keep happy & motivated when you can’t do something you’re passionate about. On the other hand, it has given me the opportunity to take some of my medical knowledge to learn & apply some healing strategies.
A few measures I’m currently taking : supplementing with fish oil, as well as glucosamine & chondroitin. Engaging my injured finger with some stretches to maintain mobility & encourage healing. Light activity. (Just read about an ice therapy that will cause an increase in blood flow & thus encourages healing so I plan to start that as well.)
I’ll link a few places here that have aided in dealing with my injury.
Climbing Coach | Common Finger Injuries | Hand & Wrist Stretching
Restaurant with climbing wall in El Chalten, Los Glaciares National Park, Argentina.
Photograph by Michael Burk.
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